Sea Kale

If you are lucky and live close to the sea, especially in striking distance of a shingle beach, then you may just find Sea Kale...
As far as coastal edibles go, Sea Kale rocks: it's a true delight!

Throughout the winter you will detect very little in the way of signs indicating if Sea Kale is present as it spends the winter tucked up, snugly, beneath the shingle awaiting the Spring.

The first signs of life generally begin in early spring (in mild winters it may appear earlier), when the tiniest of shoots, wake from their wintry slumber and start to force their way up through the shingle and, as the season progresses, more and more shoots appear. The leaves, whether new or mature, come in an assortment of varied and magnificent colours (see image top right): greens, purples, reds, greys and lilacs. They are crinkly edged and become more open and rounded edged with age.

Eventually, the flowering shoots appear on thick, tender, circular stalks and look remarkably similar to purple sprouting broccoli. In due time, these 'pom-poms' burst into flowers which have, 4 creamy white and delicately veined petals and yellow sepals in the centre (see image at foot of article). The 4 petalled flowers are often referred to as 'cruciferous' and are a distinctive feature of the Brassicaceae/Cabbage family. If you're lucky enough to be on a beach in flowering season, you are certain to catch the scent of sweet honey emitted by the flowers.

Post-flowering stage sees the growth of the seed pods which look like tiny, round, pale green apples. These pods are edible and if you really must try, one will suffice: it's far more important to build up abundant and resilient colonies of Sea Kale. This way, more of us will be able to sample and enjoy the delights.

Where can I find it?
Sea Kale has a preference for shingle type beaches and can be found sitting just above the high tide mark, preferring to keep itself just out of reach of the briny, ocean waters.
Sea Kale isn't overly common these days, over-harvesting and loss of habitat have led to a significant decline. This said, I do visit a particular location each year and have noticed plant numbers increasing, in part due to successful, natural seeding and also via the efforts of myself and others, who actively lend a hand by spreading the seeds. You may find some locations have hundreds of plants, at others a mere 2 or 3.

When is the best to time gather?

• Early to mid-spring is best for newly emerging leaves 
• Mid-late spring for pre-flowering tops, flowers and young leaves (these leaves can be found in the centre of the plant)
•  Early to mid-summer for seed pods and seed spreading

How much should I harvest?
Due to its relative scarcity, the general rule of thumb is to only gather a couple of leaves from each plant.
Unless there is a very healthy and plentiful colony, the pre-flowering tops should be left to flower and turn to seed: the odd few flowers, just to sample their delights, shouldn't cause any harm, but do bear in mind that other folk may also opt to do the same so, if needs be, be patient, observe the plants for a couple of years and make an educated decision. If you're actively helping to spread the seeds and thus increasing overall plant numbers, I personally see no reason why the odd, pre-flowering top can't be harvested. I'm sure the plants won't begrudge you the perk based on the merits of being a 'wise and successful seed spreader'.

How do I cook with it?
Sea Kale aka 'Crambe maritima', is the ancient ancestor of cultivated Kale and as such, it can be treated in the kitchen in exactly the same manner as it's cultivated cousin. Simplicity is key but feel free to experiment.

• Raw leaves. Wonderful texture and excellent flavour. Use only the youngest most tender leaves 
• Gently simmer young leaves for 4-5 minutes in salted water, drain, add butter, salt and pepper: proper yum!
• Steam young leaves for 5-6 minutes, add butter, salt and pepper: proper yum!
• Add simmered or steamed leaves to other warm dishes or, once cooked, refresh in iced water and add to or, make a sea kale salad.
• Blanch small, whole leaves, refresh in iced water, pat dry, dust with flour, dip in tempura batter and deep fry.
• Pre-flowering tops. Treat as you would when steaming young leaves. Ensure you leave plenty tops for flowering and setting seed!
• Flowers. Use as a garnish or eat raw. Minimise the amount you pick and eat.
• Seed pods. Raw and purely as a very occasional treat. One will suffice and only if in abundance. 

I've tried lacto-fermenting the leaves but I found the flavour way too over-powering. I also infused some leaves, along with other coastal edibles, in vodka, that didn't work out well at all!

Sea Kale: A brighter future
I have no doubt that some reading this will have opposing views and opinions, citing the picking of any part of Sea Kale as irresponsible and a threat to it's survival. On the contrary, I believe the biggest threat to Sea Kale is via our growing disconnect from the natural world. Sea Kale is a pretty hardy maritime plant and, while I'm aware that it's overall numbers have declined, it hasn't yet faded into total obscurity and the more aware we become of it, the more we act in accordance. Sea Kale hasn't declined because it's a weak plant, it's declined because of greed and habitat loss - how many of you campaign against the removal of shingle to be used as hardcore in the building industry or additions to urban gardens?

The more time we spend indoors, the less aware and more disconnected we become of the natural world, and so the greater the threat to its survival becomes. When we become more aware of the importance of wild plants as healthy and nutritious food sources for humans and other creatures and also the importance their wider roles play, the harder we work to ensure they don't disappear: plants act as places of shelter, breeding grounds and sources of food for a range of creatures and organisms.

I have been actively spreading seed at a particular location for the previous three years and there are definitely more plants now than there were. I also believe that others are caring for those particular plants: I see plants at that beach that have been 'shored up' with rocks to promote blanching of the emerging shoots which, in-turn, provides extra strength and protection against extreme weather conditions: I wonder how many 'nay-sayers' take time out to get involved instead of sitting in their armchairs decrying everyone else that dare to gather wild plants?

Yes, Sea Kale isn't as widespread and abundant as it once was, however, with a bit of assistance from it's human friends, it can become more prolific, abundant and widespread once more. The simple act of spreading seeds along the upper shoreline is a great way to reconnect and get involved in re-establishing plant colonies and it's a great way to say thanks for the tasty harvest it provides and the seeds can be taken from one beach and scattered at another shingle beach that doesn't have Sea Kale growing on it.

Taking care of nature and developing a sense of responsibility toward it is not only a good thing for humans but also for the wider-web of life, local habitats and the global ecosystem. Humans are an important part of the global ecosystem and its about time we recognised this, re-aligned and re-established our place among it and joined the party.

Fun Activities For Adults and Kids: Foraging isn't just about the meal at the end of the day...

• Sea Kale leaves have a unique 'squeak' when disturbed or rubbed together so, why not try making a musical recording on your mobile phone? The results can simply be a playful and happy memory of your day out and who knows, they may even spark a new wave of music and musically minded youths...
• Hold a young leaf up to the sunlight and see how many different colours you can see.
• Take a small stove, a pan, some water, butter, salt and pepper with you and cook some freshly picked leaves right there, on the beach while you watch and listen to all the groovy coastal things going on around you. This way you don't need to rush back home for tea... 
• Take a copy of John Wrights 'Seashore Foraging' book with you and see if you can find other coastal edibles while searching for Sea Kale. Plants to keep on your radar are: Sea Beet, Sea Sandwort, Rock Samphire, Sea Campion, Sea Buckthorn, Sea Holly (strictly no gathering of the roots) and the various Oraches. 
• Make a plant diary and note all the different plants you find on different beaches...

Sea Kale in full flower-power stage (above left) and close up of flowers (above right).